Alpine Climbing Leadership Course

For those who would like to experience all the Weminuche Wilderness of the San Juan Mountains has to offer, then this is the trip for you. The 8 day Alpine Mountaineering Leadership Course is designed for those that have the time and desire to maximize the amount of commitment and training needed to become an experienced mountaineer and alpine climber. We cover basic roped climbing, backcountry travel, camping, map reading, alpine rock, and snow climbing skills. The course culminates in at least four and sometimes five technical mountain ascents that utilize all the skills that were covered in the course. This course is also a great precursor to attempting high altitude mountains in Mexico, South America, Alaska, and beyond.

Our client-to-guide ratio for this course is very low, 2:1, so that you get the maximum amount of instruction and individual attention to insure that you leave this course with a solid foundation of skills and understanding of how to undertake and lead your own alpine climbing adventure. Many of our course graduates go on to climb with us in Washington's North Cascades which offers participants a "next step" in terms of alpine climbing objectives.

We utilize the Needle Mountains, Grenadier Range, and Ice Lakes Basin in the San Juan Mountains for our course instruction venues. We will attempt some, if not all, of the following climbs: Vestal Peak (Wham Ridge), Arrow Peak (North Ridge), Storm King Peak (NE Buttress), Vermillion Peak (East Ridge), Golden Horn (North Face).

Seminar Highlights and Topics Covered Include:

• Standard belaying and rappelling methods in alpine environments.
• Alpine anchors, climbing gear, hauling systems, and self-rescue protocol.
• Route planning, map, compass, and GPS navigational tactics.
• General trip planning and packing including:
• Food options dependent upon your itinerary.
• Stoves and cook gear and their proper use.
• Essential gear to keep pack weights light.
• Campsite selection and Leave-No-Trace (LNT) principles.
• Pace and time management.

Sample Itinerary

Day 1: We meet early at the Southwest Adventure Guides' office. From there, we drive north to Andrews Lake (10,800 ft.). From Andrews Lake, we make a short hike to our base camp location below Snowdon Peak. Here begin our introduction to alpine rock climbing. We will cover knots, belaying, rappelling and rope management skills. Following our rock climbing instruction, we set up camp, cook dinner and relax in the spectacular alpine setting.

Day 2: After an early breakfast, we will hike to the snow slopes below Snowdon peak. Here, we learn alpine snow and rock climbing techniques, self arrest skills and glissading. We continue with learning and practicing team roped travel, anchoring and belaying.

Day 3: We will rise early on the third day for our ascent of the West Face of Snowdon Peak (13,077 ft.). We ascend either the Northwest Couloir or the East Ridge depending on conditions. This is a dramatic technical climb which will provide you with exhilarating views of the San Juan Mountains from a high and central location. After descending, we will pack up camp and return to base camp pack up and hike toward Crater lake.

Day 4: We get an alpine start to avoid afternoon thunderstorms, increasing our chances of success. This morning we will climb North Twighlight peak (13,075 ft.) While climbing the peak, we will apply the techniques we learned over the last few days to assist us in ascending the peak safely and competently.

Day 5: Today we pack up and hike down to the trailhead and resupply with fresh food then hike to Elk Park. From Elk Park we hike up Elk Creek drainage then to the beaver ponds at 10,500 ft.

Day 6: From the beaver ponds camp, we climb up into Vestal Basin to a camp below the North Face of Vestal Peak. This takes two hours from the beaver ponds to the camp (at approximately 11,000 ft.).

Day 7: Alpine ascent: We will attempt a technical route on the Wham Ridge of Vestal Peak (13,864 ft.), with 1200 ft. of climbing and a crux sections rated 5.5/5.6 in difficulty. The main focus and goal of the climb will be to apply the alpine mountaineering skills learned on day two to achieve the summit of Vestal Peak.

Day 8: Alpine Ascent: After another "alpine start" we attempt Vestal Peak's "sister" mountain, Arrow peak via the East Ridge. this is a spectacular climb up one of Colorado's most awe inspiring summits.

*Please note that itineraries are general and may be changed due to current conditions and participants experience and ability.

Additional Information

Trip Cost Includes: Guiding and instruction, breakfasts and dinners while on the mountaineering portion of the course and communal camping, cooking and climbing equipment.

Not Included: Personal lunch food. D&SNGRR train tickets (if applicable). Hotel costs before, during, or after the courses. 3% land use surcharge, $3 Colorado Outdoor Recreation Search and Rescue card, which is required, trip cancellation insurance, personal climbing or camping equipment, or guide gratuities.

Prerequisites: Participants need to be in good physical condition. Previous multi-day backpacking or camping experience is suggested though not required.

Registration and Cancellation: You will need to fill out our Domestic Mulit-Day Registration Form, cancellation policy agreement, and liability waiver, and send it to us with a 50% deposit. Balance is due on the first day of the course. Please click on our Registration/Travel link to access the required forms.