Cayame & Cotopaxi, w/Chimbo Extension Option

Our 12 day Cayambe & Cotopaxi Expedition with the 3 day Chimborazo Extension Option is easily our most popular trip in Ecuador. This expedition affords you the ability to climb all three of Ecuador's most well known volcanoes, and have plenty of time in between to visit historic and cultural sites, not to mention a little rest and relaxation to boot. This is the best trip on which to see the bulk of Ecuador's Sierra region, as well as some of the Amazon jungle near Banos, Ecuador's adventure capital.

Our expedition begins in Quito (9,500 ft) where we spend a few days acclimating and getting ready for the upcoming climbs. We allow for plenty of time in Quito and the market city of Otovalo to visit historic and cultural sites, and getting accustomed to the people of Ecuador. Our first climb is on Cayambe, where we spend a little extra time reviewing basic skills, including glacier travel and crevasse rescue protocols. The hut on Cayambe is always the group favorite due to it's position and it's lack of crowds.

Interesting glacier travel and unspoiled beauty characterize the climbing on this beautiful 18,997 ft. mountain, the third highest in the country. A dry glacier with crevasses and varied snow and ice slopes provides an ideal site for learning glacier travel, crevasse rescue, snow and ice climbing, and other fundamental skills. The ascent of Cayambe weaves through broken glacier terrain to a point near the summit crater where oftentimes a gaping bergschrund provides an exciting climax to the climb.

After Cayambe, we are ready to tackle the ascent of Cotopaxi, Ecuador's most recognizable peak. We begin the climb of Cotopaxi from the Jose Ribas hut (15,750 ft.) where we ascend a moraine to gain moderate glacier slopes to the summit. Along the way, however, complex crevasse patterns and snowbridge crossings over deep crevasses keep the climb interesting and provide impressive photo opportunities of amazing ice formations. After passing through a heavily crevassed area midway through the climb, we reach the final summit slope. Here a challenging section of 35-40 degree snow leads to the abrupt finish of the climb on the crater rim of the world's highest active volcano.

Our acclimatization will serve us well for those who stay on to complete the trifecta and attempt the climb of Chimborazo. At 20,703 feet this is Ecuador's highest peak. It provides an ideal objective for climbers to test their skills and stamina on a 6000-meter peak. From the Whymper Hut (16,400 ft.), the standard route up the western flank makes a gradual ascent (30-35 degree slopes) up a glacial ramp to gain the long summit ridge. The technical challenges involve negotiating crevasses, a couple of short 40 degree headwalls (100-300 ft.), and sustained travel on firm glacial snow for more than 4000 feet! We depart in the middle of the night, ensuring that our 12-14 hour roundtrip is completed before the intense equatorial sunlights softens the glaciers.

*If our scheduled climbs do not fit your needs, we can also schedule private dates for groups of 2 or more.

Trip Highlights

• 12 day itinerary maximizes your chance for success on both peaks
• Bi-lingual guides ensure your trip runs smoothly
• Most favorable client-to-guide ratio in the industry
• Optional city tour of Old Quito, including historical sites
• Climb Cotopaxi, the worlds highest active volcano
• Satellite phone access and pulse oximeters on all trips

Sample Itinerary

Day 1: Depart U.S. for Quito arriving late evening.
Day 2: Spend today in Quito acclimating. Optional historic city tour of Old Quito.
Day 3: Today we drive north to the world famous Otovalo Market and visit the Ecuatorial Monument.
Day 4: Travel to the hut on Cayambe (14575 ft).
Day 5: Basic mountaineering skills review. Cramponing, self arrest, roped team travel, etc.
Day 6: Glacier skills school. We cover glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques.
Day 7: Summit day on Cayambe. Return to vehicle and return to Quito.
Day 8: Rest day in Quito.
Day 9: Travel to the Jose Ribas Hut on Cotopaxi.
Day 10: Summit day on Cotopaxi, then travel to La Cienega.
Day 11: Return to Quito (Cayambe & Cotopaxi participants only; all others travel to Banos).
Day 12: Return Home. Chimborazo Extension participants rest and relax in Banos.

Additional Information

Included in cost: An AMGA Certified or Trained Guide, all ground transportation, hotel stays in Ecuador, tents and food while on the mountain as well as all group climbing and camping equipment.

Not included in cost: Food and drinks in towns, personal climbing and camping equipment, and international air fare, costs of a personal nature, extra hotels or transportation due to illness, injury, or early return.

Prerequisites: Participants should have prior, basic mountaineering experience. They should be comfortable with self arrest, walking in crampons, and have basic roped climbing experience. If you do not possess these skills, or need review, we recommend doing a skills course with us in Colorado prior to your Peru trip.

Registration and Cancellation: You will need to fill out an International Expedition Application, cancellation policy agreement, and liability waiver, and send it to us with a 50% deposit 60 days before the trip date. Balance is due 30 days prior to trip departure date. Please click on our Register link to access the required forms.