The team has been doing great and are through the first stretch of their acclimatization rotation and are now headed to the Jose Rivas hut on Cotopaxi.

On Friday the team climbed Ruminahui (15200 ft) in Cotopaxi National Park and enjoyed some breathtaking views of Cotopaxi. The following day they hiked to the Jose Rivas but and completed snow school and glacier travel training above the hut in preparation for the ascent of Cotopaxi. Today they are resting in the morning at the wonderful accommodations at Chilcabamba prior to hiking back up to the hut for the next nights climb of Cotopaxi.

The weather seems to be trending towards the favorable for the team and if all else goes well they should be standing on top early in the morning on the 16th.

After that it is on to Banos for some rest and relaxation at a lower altitude and then Chimborazo. Stay tuned for more updates and pictures!

-ND

We are getting set for a 12 day Cotopaxi and Chimborazo climb with a group of 10, and the guides are in Quito, Ecuador making final preparations for the trip as the bulk of our group is scheduled to arrive this evening.

Two of our guests for this expedition are already here, having decided to come down a few days early to get some additional time to acclimatize.  Today they are hiking Rucu Pinchincha just outside of Quito.  The hiking is easily accessible from the Telepherique/Gondola and makes for an enjoyable hike and climb of this 15,000 ft peak.

This evening the rest of our group will arrive and the trip will begin in earnest. Stay tuned to our blog for daily updates on the trip and the teams progress as well as pictures.

We will also be posting updates and pictures on our Facebook Page.

ND

Chris has been talking about how great his younger brother would be at climbing for months.  This last weekend Chris flew out with his brother Eric for some ice climbing in Ouray.  Both brothers did great!  Eric was floating up steep ice like he had been doing it for years, and Chris was leading and mock leading in the ice park despite a tweeked wrist.  Chris will be out for some more ice shortly and there are rumors of Eric coming out for some rock climbing in the future!

Thanks for the great New Years weekend guys!

BK

Julie is planning to climb Nun and Kun in Kashmir this summer and came to Durango for a little training on Engineer Mountain. We hiked up to 11,500′ and made our camp for the next two nights.  The next day we had a training day in which we went over, knots, self arresting, traveling in avalanche terrain, beacon searches, snow anchors, moving on fixed lines, moving with crampons and an axe.  On the final day we got up early and summited Engineer by 8am, having watched the sun come up while climbing the ridge.  Julie is coming back for more training in March on our Denali prep course.  Great climbing with you Julie, see you in March!

BK

The ice in the backcountry of Southwest Colorado is Fat!  Below are some photos from the last week.

BK

Tim came out to Colorado and once again crushed it!  We climbed Engineer Mountain car to car in about 7 hours.  It was a pretty windy at the bottom of the ridge going up and on the way down but quite beautiful while higher on the ridge and summit.

Tim I look forward to climbing with you this summer and Happy Anniversary to you and Mary!

BK

Winter?  What?  Whatever!  We’re going rock climbing!

That’s right, Moab rock climbing can be enjoyed all year round.  Chris came last weekend for some tower and rock fun in the beautiful red desert.

After picking Chris up at the airport in Durango, we were off to the desert.  A few hours later at the base of Castleton tower setting up camp.

Saturday we attempted Castleton in the crisp air which was perfect for hiking and climbing.  Though we only made it a few pitches up we enjoyed some warm sun, great views, and a short nap on the top of the second pitch.

Realizing that the nearly 6000 jump in altitude was getting to Chris, we decided call it a day and rappel off.  We’ll be back.

That night we met up with Matt P and Jeff W who were climbing towers as well for some beers and dinner in Moab.   After Dinner, we camped under the unreal star-filled sky that Moab always seems to provide.

Sunday, we decided to play around at the famous Wall Street crag for some fun climbs and rope ascension practice.  Chris was feeling better today and managed to send a 5.10b with two rests that he could’nt even get up last year!

Nice job Chris!

Then I set up some jugging (rope ascending) practice.

Well, after some Wall Street fun it was time to hit the road to get Chris back to D-town for his flight home.

Another great weekend in Moab that goes to show that if the sun’s-a-shinin, rock climbing in the desert is a year round affair!

BG

In their October newletter, the AMGA highlights some of the issues (and what we as a climbing community can do about them), revolving around the attempt by the National Park Service to ban commercial guiding in The Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park.  In addition to The Black, the NPS is also attempting to reduce by almost 40% the amount of commercial guiding on Denali.

Essentially, the National Park Service is placing the rights of the independent climber ABOVE the rights of those who would choose to hire the services of a professional guide.  In our view, both user groups should be afforded equal treatment and rights by the National Park Service, Forest Service, and Bureau of Land Management.

Please take the time to read further and find out what you can do about it!

Comments due for The Black Canyon NP on October 27.

Comments due for Denali NP on October 31.

National Parks Access Threatened – Important Call to Action!

**************Comments DUE Saturday, 10/27********************

We are deeply concerned about the current threat to guiding access in our country’s National Park System. The Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park wants to completely ban guided climbing, which has a 50-year history in this unique climbing venue. This proposed ban does not only impact this incredible park in Colorado. This is a national threat, which could set a debilitating precedent for guided climbing in National Parks across the country. If you care about preserving wilderness guided climbing access in venues such as Yosemite, Joshua Tree, Rocky Mountain National Park, New River Gorge and other important guiding venues, please read on.

The Black Canyon Backcountry Management Plan wants to ban guiding because “guided climbing does not support the goal for the inner canyon zone of providing a visitor experience that is challenging, self-reliant, and adventurous.” The NPS is making an uncanny argument for why guided climbing is no longer necessary in the Park. Your clients, friends and fellow climbers (who are not guides) need to submit comments to the Park. We have been told that the Park has already heard from guides, and what they really need are comments from the general public and clients.

What can you do now?

1. Email your client list, friends and fellow climbers today urging them to submit a comment by Oct. 27th. Use Facebook, your website, blog and any other communication vehicles to get the word out to your clients.

2. See below for a sample email to your clients, friends and fellow climbers.

It’s in all of our interests to raise awareness and take action on this important issue today. The deadline for comments is Thursday, October 27th. Thank you for supporting the future of the profession in the U.S.

For more information, visit http://parkplanning.nps.gov

___________________________________________________________________________________

The National Park Service wants to ban guided climbing and prohibit members of the public from being able to climb with a professional guide in one of our country’s most adventurous wilderness climbing areas. This is a national threat, which could set a debilitating precedent for guided climbing access in National Parks across the country. We are requesting your urgent support to help preserve guided climbing access in the Black Canyon as well as in other National Parks the U.S.

Here is how you can help:

Send an email to Ken_Stahlnecker@nps.gov today using the talking points below. Our goal is to have 500 people (who are not guides) contact Ken Stahlnecker opposing the Park’s plan to ban guided climbing in the Black Canyon and urging the Park to preserve guiding climbing access in this unique venue.

Dear Ken Stahlnecker,
Chief, Resource Stewardship and Science
National Park Service,
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

I am writing to urge you to keep guided climbing access available to the American public. Along with Yosemite National Park and Red Rocks National Conservation Area, the Black Canyon is one of only a few climbing venues in the country offering big wall climbing opportunities. There is often a scarcity of willing and adequate climbing partners to tackle the bold and remote terrain of the Black. Because climbing requires a team of two unless one is free soloing, my options for experiencing this unique wilderness area will be substantially reduced or eliminated altogether if guided climbing is banned in the Inner Canyon Zone.

Having the option to climb with a professional guide is necessary for me to be able to experience the vertical wilderness in the Black Canyon. Partnering with a professional guide will enhance my opportunity for an experience of adventure, challenge and self-reliance. I see no difference between climbing with a professional guide and climbing with a non-guide partner who happens to be stronger or more experienced than me. It is not uncommon for climbing partners to be of varying levels of experience. Climbing successfully in the Black always requires the self-reliance, commitment and personal fortitude of both climbing partners regardless of their varying experience levels.

Thank you for the opportunity to provide my opinion on this important matter.

Just got off a trip with fellow Michiganders Jen and Charlie.  They were on a two week trip to climb and check out locations in Ouray for their upcoming wedding.  I got them for four days near the end of their trip.

Day 1:

Climbed Ancient Art, Lizard Rock and two routes at Wall Street.

Day 2:

Chased shade in Indian Creek.

Day 3:

Maiden Voyage in the Black Canyon.

Day 4:

Casually Off-Route in the Black.

It was great climbing with you Jen and Charlie, I hope to see you this winter in Ouray!

BK