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The Cordillera Blanca in Peru offers some of the most spectacular mountain scenery to be found anywhere in the world. Tall jagged peaks of rock and ice dominate the eastern horizon from the small market town of Huaraz. Each year Southwest Adventure Guideshas led successful summit climbs on all of these mountains.
There are a number of major climbs to be made. For the novice mountaineer we offer an excellent high altitude training camp in the Ishinca valley where we climb Ishinca (18,188 ft.) and Urus (17,770 ft.). For the more experienced climber we Climb Pisco Oeste (18,997 ft.) for a straight forward acclimitization peak, then tackle the huge sister peak of Huascaran, Chopiqualqui (20,841 ft.).
The other main objective is the Southwest Face of Alpamayo (19,506'), namely, the French Route. We now avoid the potentially dangerous and overcrowded Ferrari Route. The route climbs an ice fluting directly to the summit. There are seven technical pitches with a the steepest being around 70 degress in steepness. Participants need to have previous alpine ice climbing experience.
Yet another objective is the beautiful Artesonraju (19,560) in the Paron Valley. The symmetrical nature of this peak is simply awe inspiring and the climb leaves nothing to be desired. Steep climbing on an open face makes this a truly proud and challenging ascent.
Finally, we offer climbs of the mammoth Huascaran-Sur (22,205'), Peru's highest peak and one of the most imposing summits in the world. It offers a challenging ascent requiring intermediate level alpine skills, and an unusual opportunity for climbers who want to make an ascent to very high altitude. In order to acclimate, we will also attempt Nevado Pisco (19,188'), which offers breathtaking views all the way to the summit. Conditions have improved on Huascaran in recent years and we are now offering climbs of this mountain for small groups.
Ishinca Valley Expedition - The Ishinca Valley is located just outside of Huaraz, and hosts a number of inspiring peaks. After the initial training phase, we climb Urus (19,343 ft.), Ishinca (17,980 ft.), and Tocllaraju (19,790 ft.). This is an excellent way to acquire the experience you need to reach higher altitudes.
Chopicalqui - Chopicalqui is a magnificant mountain and is often referred to as Huascaran's sister mountain. Chopicalqui offers a higher chance of success than Huascaran, and poses less obejctive hazard. A perfect high altitude ascent for those with less high mountain experience.
Artesonraju - Located in the magnificent Paron Valley, Artesonraju is our staff favorite in Peru. Simply one of the best climbs in the range in the heart of the Cordillera Blanca.
Alpamayo - Alpamayo's Southwest Face continues to be one of the world's most sought after climbs. We continue to have the highest success rate on the mountain with superior support and acclimitization. Due to recent conditions we will now be climbing Alpamayo via the French Route instead of the Ferrari Route. The French Route is a shorter more direct line to the summit, and poses less objective hazard!
Huascaran - Conditions have improved on Huascaran! Based on recent information gained from our 2007 season in Peru, we have decided to once again offer the Huascaran Sur expedition. We will maintain a 2:1 client-to-guide ratio on this climb, increasing chances for success.
Travel in Peru is made by the most practical means necessary. We travel by public bus (first class when possible), four wheel drive vehicle, taxis (collectivos), and on foot. When the group size necessitates, we hire a private vehicle to take us between major towns and valleys.
In the highlands where we will be climbing, the days are warm and the nights are cool. On the climbs themselves, you can expect temperatures to be in the 20s and 30s at the camps. On the summit days, the temperatures can dip to below 0F with the wind chill factor. As with any high altitude climb, the temperature extremes can be great.
You will need a valid passport or an original birth certificate (no photocopies) and a drivers license to enter Peru. Make two copies of your passport in case the original is lost. Leave one copy with someone in the United States and carry the other one with you. You will be issued a tourist card upon entry. At the airport, you can check two bags at 50 lbs. each and carry on a small handbag without an additional charge.
No vaccinations are required to enter Peru, however it is important to get a tetanus booster (if you have not had one in the last ten years) and a Hepatitis A vaccine. It is a good idea not to eat raw or uncooked food or fruits that you do not peel. We drink bottled water when available, and we purify and boil water in the mountains.
One last note: traveling and climbing in a foreign country can be stressful. The best laid plans can change for reasons beyond anyones control. In less-developed countries, little problems can be compounded by lack of infrastructure as well as cultural and language differences. It is therefore important to be flexible, laid back and less goal-oriented than we may be in our everyday lives. Let the guide deal with the hassles and headaches that come and go.
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