Climbed Vestal Peak via the Wham Ridge with Pat from El Paso, TX this week. We did the trip as a 2 day climb, riding the train to Elk Park and hiking into Vestal Basin on Day 1. An alpine start on Day 2 got us up and down the Wham Ridge and back to camp in the basin by noon. We packed up camp and trudged back out and up to Molas Pass via the 45 switchbacks trail.

All in all, a great trip with pretty good weather most of the time. Hard to avoid the afternoon thunderstorms this time of year, so early starts make all the difference. From the top of Vestal Peak (13,894) it is a 5,000 ft. descent back to the Animas, then another 2,000 ft. up to the top of Molas. About 10 miles and 10,000 ft. of elevation gain and loss in one day. A true mountain day to be sure. Great work Pat!

Next up is a Jagged Mtn./Storm King Peak program next week. Stay tuned for updates and pics from the trip!

ND

Ed from Omaha came out to Durango for a few days in Chicago Basin with training for Rainier in mind. Ed will start climbing Rainier on Saturday, and wanted to get a little more elevation under his belt than the 900′ that is Omaha. Colorado is perfect for gaining altitude experience. We slept at about 11,000′ and climbed two peaks over 14,000′. Ed did great on the climbs and I’m sure will do great on Rainier.

Good luck Ed!

BJK

Ed on the summit of Sunlight.

Hiking down.

After what seemed like some unusually wet weather in June, we have been having perfect blue skies. Making the temperature in Durango hot and the weather in the mountains great. So Thursday we headed out and climbed Snowdon Peak which was the first peak ever for the two texans! A proud summit for a first peak, but I guess a little military training never hurts.

BJK

It was recently reported by NOAA that an El Nino weather pattern is forming in the Pacific Ocean, and is expected to strengthen and continue through the 2009 - 2010 winter season. As stated by NOAA, an El Nino weather pattern “typically brings beneficial winter precipitation to the arid Southwest”. The so-called “negative” impacts of an El Nino include damaging winter storms in California and increased storminess across the southern United States.

Read the entire article here.

The last El Nino winter we experienced was the winter of 2004 - 2005, a winter in which we were at 150% of our normal snowpack depth. If conditions hold, it looks like we could be in for another record setting winter in the San Juans. Time to start thinking about Backcountry Skiing and Avalanche Courses?

ND

After a quick flight 2/3 of the way across of the US, Dave from New York and I, hopped the Durango - Silverton Railroad with our heart set on Vestal’s North facing Wham Ridge. The train offered a great introduction of the views to come of the San Juan Mountains and a time to eat donuts and coffee. Once off the train and immediately out of Elk Park, Dave set a strong pace which brought us to ing us the Beaver Ponds 1 hour and 20 minutes later. At this point Dave saw our objective and decided that concentrating on getting to camp was easier on his mind than thinking of the near vertical face which loomed over Vestal.

The climber’s trail leaving the primitive campsites around the Beaver Pond seemed in much better shape than years past and crossing Elk Creek proved to be an easier task than earlier in the season. We stopped for lunch around 10,500 feet where rain began to fall in normal Colorado fashion. Full bellies and warm rain coats put both of us to sleep under the comfort and shelter of large Pine tree limbs. At 5pm, after a 1 hour 45 minute lunch-nap, we made camp at the West end of the Basin.

The next morning came with excitement and a near full moon with enough light to not warrant headlamps. We left camp at 5:15AM and gained the base of Wham around 6:10. Here we dawned harnesses and a rope and the fun began. At this point Dave’s eyes lit up with excitement as he climbed through the opening 5.4 pitch and cruised up the 5.5 crux section of the climb. At this point Dave admitted his prior nervousness was now replaced with pure delight. We welcomed the summit at 9AM under clear skies and amazing views in all directions. After a snack, rest and congratulations, we began our descent off the back side at 9:30.

During prior conversations, Dave had mentioned he skied some back East, therefore I decided some backcountry boot skiing was in order. Dave opened ’em and I closed ‘em for a fun speedy descent down from Vestal and Arrows col. We returned to camp at 11:20 AM under now cloudy, threatening skies; perfect weather for an afternoon nap.

The next morning we woke, packed up and began our descent back to Elk Park at 7:30 AM. Dave excelled in hasty descending techniques and we passed the Beaver Ponds at 8:40 and subsequently reached the railroad tracks at 10AM. All with a 20 minute rest at one of many breath-taking panoramas on the trail. Here we rinsed off in the Animas’s fresh snow melt and ate 3 servings of salami each. YUMM!!!

With our record breaking descent time and recess-like numbers of vacationing children, we decided on taking the train North to Silverton where we knew there would be cold beer. No better way to end a trip-of-a-lifetime than with cold beer and great food follwoed by a senic train rdie home through the rugged San Juan mountains of Colorado.

MSP

Last Friday, Aaron, Bill and I ran in for a 1 day ascent of Vestal Peak’s Wham Ridge. Without the aid of the train, this is accomplished by accessing the Colorado Trail on top of Molas Pass, and descending to the Animas River for about 3.5 miles and 2000 vertical feet. Then it’s 5.5 miles and 5000 vertical feet to the summit of Vestal Peak (13,894′). Great views of Jagged Mountain, Pigeon Peak, and Chicago Basin from the summit of this centennial 13′er.

In total it’s about 20 miles round trip, and it took us exactly 13 hours and 30 minutes to complete the day. Carrying light certainly helps to make this possible, but I have to say I enjoy camping up in the basin and doing this as an overnight trip. Check out out our 3 Day Wham Ridge Climbs, or Vestal and Arrow Peak Trips. Tis the season in the Grenadiers, the setting and the climbing is about the best the San Juans have to offer.

ND

As the Animas starts to recede, our rock climbing adventures in Durango always pick up. It’s an absolutely great time of year to climb in Durango, and the mornings are perfect for a couple of hours at either X-Rock or East Animas, two of Durango’s best rock climbing crags. We specialize in working with participants who have never climbed previously, but also regularly work with climber’s who’ve been around but would like to climb an area classic like Simians to the Sun. Whether it’s a Rock Rescue Course or a 1/2 day of climbing at X-Rock, you won’t be disappointed with the climbing opportunities in Durango! Durango Climbing Home Page

ND

Click here to watch an X-Rock Climbing Video

Climbed Snowdon Peak via the West Buttress with Max today. No matter how many times I do this climb, I always enjoy the combination of aesthetics and relatively good rock quality (for the San Juans anyway). One of the best weather days of the summer so far with barely a hint of the typical afternoon thunderstorm buildup. Max and I did the trip car to car in 5:20. Not bad for a city boy from New Jersey!

Mountain Conditions Update:

Just a few patches of snow left in the high country, mostly on shady aspects and deep inset couloirs. All passes and trails are open and the stream crossings are a breeze now. Mid July through September is the best season to do some of the alpine rock routes in the Weminuche. Vestal, Arrow, Storm King, Jagged……they’re waiting.

ND