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Training for the Himalayas with Engineer

January 5th, 2012

Julie is planning to climb Nun and Kun in Kashmir this summer and came to Durango for a little training on Engineer Mountain. We hiked up to 11,500′ and made our camp for the next two nights. The next day we had a training day in which we went over, knots, self arresting, traveling in avalanche terrain, beacon searches, snow anchors, moving on fixed lines, moving with crampons and an axe. On the final day we got up early and summited Engineer by 8am, having watched the sun come up while climbing the ridge. Julie is coming back for more training in March on our Denali prep course. Great climbing with you Julie, see you in March!

BK

Fatty Ice in SW Colorado

January 2nd, 2012

The ice in the backcountry of Southwest Colorado is Fat! Below are some photos from the last week.

BK

Winter Ascent of Engineer

January 2nd, 2012

Tim came out to Colorado and once again crushed it! We climbed Engineer Mountain car to car in about 7 hours. It was a pretty windy at the bottom of the ridge going up and on the way down but quite beautiful while higher on the ridge and summit.

Tim I look forward to climbing with you this summer and Happy Anniversary to you and Mary!

BK

Moab rock climbing; a year-round affair!

December 3rd, 2011

Winter? What? Whatever! We’re going rock climbing!

That’s right, Moab rock climbing can be enjoyed all year round. Chris came last weekend for some tower and rock fun in the beautiful red desert.

After picking Chris up at the airport in Durango, we were off to the desert. A few hours later at the base of Castleton tower setting up camp.

Saturday we attempted Castleton in the crisp air which was perfect for hiking and climbing. Though we only made it a few pitches up we enjoyed some warm sun, great views, and a short nap on the top of the second pitch.

Realizing that the nearly 6000 jump in altitude was getting to Chris, we decided call it a day and rappel off. We’ll be back.

That night we met up with Matt P and Jeff W who were climbing towers as well for some beers and dinner in Moab. After Dinner, we camped under the unreal star-filled sky that Moab always seems to provide.


Sunday, we decided to play around at the famous Wall Street crag for some fun climbs and rope ascension practice. Chris was feeling better today and managed to send a 5.10b with two rests that he could’nt even get up last year!

Nice job Chris!

Then I set up some jugging (rope ascending) practice.

Well, after some Wall Street fun it was time to hit the road to get Chris back to D-town for his flight home.

Another great weekend in Moab that goes to show that if the sun’s-a-shinin, rock climbing in the desert is a year round affair!

BG

Guided Climbing Threatened in our National Parks

October 20th, 2011

In their October newletter, the AMGA highlights some of the issues (and what we as a climbing community can do about them), revolving around the attempt by the National Park Service to ban commercial guiding in The Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. In addition to The Black, the NPS is also attempting to reduce by almost 40% the amount of commercial guiding on Denali.

Essentially, the National Park Service is placing the rights of the independent climber ABOVE the rights of those who would choose to hire the services of a professional guide. In our view, both user groups should be afforded equal treatment and rights by the National Park Service, Forest Service, and Bureau of Land Management.

Please take the time to read further and find out what you can do about it!

Comments due for The Black Canyon NP on October 27.

Comments due for Denali NP on October 31.

National Parks Access Threatened - Important Call to Action!

**************Comments DUE Saturday, 10/27********************

We are deeply concerned about the current threat to guiding access in our country’s National Park System. The Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park wants to completely ban guided climbing, which has a 50-year history in this unique climbing venue. This proposed ban does not only impact this incredible park in Colorado. This is a national threat, which could set a debilitating precedent for guided climbing in National Parks across the country. If you care about preserving wilderness guided climbing access in venues such as Yosemite, Joshua Tree, Rocky Mountain National Park, New River Gorge and other important guiding venues, please read on.

The Black Canyon Backcountry Management Plan wants to ban guiding because “guided climbing does not support the goal for the inner canyon zone of providing a visitor experience that is challenging, self-reliant, and adventurous.” The NPS is making an uncanny argument for why guided climbing is no longer necessary in the Park. Your clients, friends and fellow climbers (who are not guides) need to submit comments to the Park. We have been told that the Park has already heard from guides, and what they really need are comments from the general public and clients.

What can you do now?

1. Email your client list, friends and fellow climbers today urging them to submit a comment by Oct. 27th. Use Facebook, your website, blog and any other communication vehicles to get the word out to your clients.

2. See below for a sample email to your clients, friends and fellow climbers.

It’s in all of our interests to raise awareness and take action on this important issue today. The deadline for comments is Thursday, October 27th. Thank you for supporting the future of the profession in the U.S.

For more information, visit http://parkplanning.nps.gov

___________________________________________________________________________________

The National Park Service wants to ban guided climbing and prohibit members of the public from being able to climb with a professional guide in one of our country’s most adventurous wilderness climbing areas. This is a national threat, which could set a debilitating precedent for guided climbing access in National Parks across the country. We are requesting your urgent support to help preserve guided climbing access in the Black Canyon as well as in other National Parks the U.S.

Here is how you can help:

Send an email to [email protected] today using the talking points below. Our goal is to have 500 people (who are not guides) contact Ken Stahlnecker opposing the Park’s plan to ban guided climbing in the Black Canyon and urging the Park to preserve guiding climbing access in this unique venue.

Dear Ken Stahlnecker,
Chief, Resource Stewardship and Science
National Park Service,
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

I am writing to urge you to keep guided climbing access available to the American public. Along with Yosemite National Park and Red Rocks National Conservation Area, the Black Canyon is one of only a few climbing venues in the country offering big wall climbing opportunities. There is often a scarcity of willing and adequate climbing partners to tackle the bold and remote terrain of the Black. Because climbing requires a team of two unless one is free soloing, my options for experiencing this unique wilderness area will be substantially reduced or eliminated altogether if guided climbing is banned in the Inner Canyon Zone.

Having the option to climb with a professional guide is necessary for me to be able to experience the vertical wilderness in the Black Canyon. Partnering with a professional guide will enhance my opportunity for an experience of adventure, challenge and self-reliance. I see no difference between climbing with a professional guide and climbing with a non-guide partner who happens to be stronger or more experienced than me. It is not uncommon for climbing partners to be of varying levels of experience. Climbing successfully in the Black always requires the self-reliance, commitment and personal fortitude of both climbing partners regardless of their varying experience levels.

Thank you for the opportunity to provide my opinion on this important matter.

Engaged in Climbing

September 24th, 2011

Just got off a trip with fellow Michiganders Jen and Charlie. They were on a two week trip to climb and check out locations in Ouray for their upcoming wedding. I got them for four days near the end of their trip.

Day 1:

Climbed Ancient Art, Lizard Rock and two routes at Wall Street.

Jen and Charlie

Jen on Lizard Rock with the Fisher Towers in the background.

Day 2:

Chased shade in Indian Creek.

Jen on Generic Crack

Day 3:

Maiden Voyage in the Black Canyon.

Charlie leading the last pitch of Maiden Voyage.

The Black Cayon.

Day 4:

Casually Off-Route in the Black.

Jen and Charlie on Casually Off-Route.

Jen and Charlie

It was great climbing with you Jen and Charlie, I hope to see you this winter in Ouray!

BK

Pigeon and Turret

September 4th, 2011

Tim has wanted to climb Pigeon and Turret since he first saw them years ago, but Pigeon and Turret are big peaks deep in the Weminuche. Just getting into Ruby Creek at the base of the peaks is a big day. The weather didn’t look great but looked like it would offer us a window to climb the peaks. Sure enough we got rained on hiking in and out of Ruby Creek but were blessed with only sun on the climbing day. Hiking out we figured we ascended around 9,800′ in the three days.

Great trip Tim!

Below are some photos of our trip.

BK

Great Basins Combo

September 4th, 2011

Gary had been into Chicago Basin back in the 70’s, and had left with unfinished business. He had climbed Jupiter and Windom but bad weather denied them Eolus and Sunlight. Since the 70’s Gary has climbed peaks all over the North Cascades. When he decided to return to the Weminuche to finish the peaks in Chicago Basin, he wanted to make it a combo trip and visit Vestal Basin as well.

We started out the 7 day trip with a day of rock climbing at East Animas in Durango, finishing day one with a two pitch climb called Angel Dust. Day two we took the train into Elk Park and hiked into Vestal Basin where we were greeted with a great show from two moose. The next morning we woke early and climbed the amazing Wham Ridge on Vestal Peak. On the way down from Vestal we decided it was early enough in the day to climb Arrow Peak as well. The next two days were spent hiking over to Chicago Basin for the second part of the trip. We decided that it was most efficent to climb all the 14,000′ Chicago basin peaks in one day so again we woke early and climbed Eolus then Sunlight and were at 13,800′ on Windom when the weather started coming in and forced us down. Not bad for one day! The final day of this great trip was spent hiking out of Chicago Basin and catching the train to Durango.

Check out some photos below!

BK

Climbing ‘Yellow Pages’ at East Animas.

On the hike in. Vestal and Arrow in the background.

The two moose.

Climbing Wham Ridge!

Climbing Arrow Peak with Wham Ridge in the background.

Hiking on the train tracks through the mud slide.

Sunrise on Eolus.

Good Times in the Mountains

August 22nd, 2011

In celebration of fixing my computer, I am posting random pictures from this summers trips for your viewing pleasure.

BG

Moab, UT Rock Climbing Courses

August 16th, 2011

New for the fall of 2011 is our 4 Day Desert Climbing Seminar. The seminar adds 2 days to our popular 2 Day Indian Creek Crack Climbing Course and expands on a number of topics including anchoring, protection placement, lead climbing, multi-pitch strategies, self rescue, and other valuable skills that will help you to progress your climbing.

The 4 Day Seminar is scheduled to run Saturday - Tuesday on select weekends in October and November to help us avoid the crowds on popular climbs such as Castleton Tower and other area classics. Days 1 & 2 of the program are spent at Indian Creek, and then days 3 & 4 are spent in the Moab/Castle Valley area.

Join us this fall in perhaps the world’s best cragging destination and find out why climber’s from around the globe make the pilgrimage to Indian Creek and Moab to experience the fantastic climbing, scenery, and camping of the Utah Desert!

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