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Overview | Climbing | Trekking
Ishinca Valley | Alpamayo
| Huascaran | Pisco/Chopiqualqui
Nevado Alpamayo (19,506 ft.) and Quitaraju (19,820 ft.)
2008 Dates: July 3 - July 20 (18 days).
2009 Dates: July 9 - 26. (18 Days).
Cost: $4200 at 2:1, $5200 at 1:1
Client to Guide Ratio: Max 2:1
Advanced Level Climbing
Long considered one of the world's most beautiful mountains, Alpamayo remains one of mountaineering's most coveted summits. Situated in the "Himalayas of South America," the Cordillera Blanca is much more accessible than its Asian counterpart, yet there are scores of peaks over 19,000 feet. This expedition takes advantage of the rich Peruvian culture and the magnificent alpine terrain to climb the Ferrari Route on the Southwest Face of Alpamayo.
After arriving in Lima, we travel by bus to Huaraz (9,500'), at the very foot of the Cordillera Blanca. After spending a day in Huaraz checking and repacking gear, we drive north along the foot of the mountains to the trailhead of the beautiful Quebrada Santa Cruz, passing Huascaran on our way. We trek up the Santa Cruz valley for two days to Quebrada Arhuaycocha, below the rugged and majestic peaks of Taulliraju and Artesonraju. Here we will place our base camp in preparation for our climb of Alpamayo. After a day of rest at base camp, we begin by carrying up to an intermediate camp called "campo moraina" or moraine camp. From moraine camp, we catch a glimpse of the first steep snow climbing between high camp and the col between Alpamayo and Quitaraju. Once established at the col camp, we prepare for our summit bid. We climb the classic route on the face, the Ferrari Route. In 2008 we will be climbing the French Route to avoid the more objectively hazardous Ferrari Route. The French Route is characterized by steep snow and ice climbing up to 70 degrees and is a more direct ling to the summit on Alpamayo's SW face. After our summit climb, we carry our equipment back down to base camp, then retrace our route back to Cashapampa, Caraz, Huaraz and finally to Lima where we depart for home. Our trips are fully supported with burros, porters, and cooks. Pack weights are light to ease the adjustment to the altitude, and give us a greater chance for success.
- Day 1 : Arrive in Lima, Peru.
- Day 2: Today we travel to the high mountain town of Huaraz (9,500 ft.).
- Day 3: In Huaraz, we organize equipment and food for our expedition.
- Day 4: Drive to Cashapampa. We begin our trek up the lovely Santa Cruz Valley to camp at Illma Corral.
- Day 5: Another splendid day of trekking in the high Andes to reach our base camp for Alpamayo.
- Day 6: We hike a load of equipment and supplies to camp 1 (moraine) and return to Base Camp.
- Day 7: Today we hike to and stay at camp 1.
- Day 8: A rest and acclimatization day at camp 1.
- Day 9: We shuttle a supplies to camp 2 (col camp) and return to camp 1.
- Day 10: Today we move to camp 2.
- Day 11: Summit day on Alpamayo.
- Day 12: Extra summit day or rest day.
- Day 13: Summit day on Quitaraju or extra summit day on Alpamayo.
- Day 14: From the col camp we descend down to base camp.
- Day 15: From base camp, we trek down valley to Cashapampa and continue on to Huaraz.
- Day 16: Bus ride from Huaraz to Lima.
- Day 17: Depart Lima on an evening flight.
- Day 18: Arrive in the U.S.
Included in cost: An AMGA Certified or Trained Alpine Guide, who also speaks fluent Spanish. All ground transportation, hotels, tents, and food while on the mountain. All group climbing and camping equipment.
Not included in cost: Food and drinks in towns, personal climbing and camping equipment, and international air fare, costs of a personal nature, extra hotels or transportation due to illness, injury, or early return.
Prerequisites: Participants should have prior, basic mountaineering experience, glacier travel, and be comfortable climbing ice up to grade WI 3. They should be comfortable with self arrest, walking in crampons, and have multi-pitch ice and rock climbing experience. If you do not possess these skills, or need review, we recommend doing a skills course with us in Colorado prior to your Peru trip.
Equipment: Download the Alpamayo Expedition Equipment Checklist
Registration and Cancellation: You will need to fill out an International Expedition Application, cancellation policy agreement, and liability waiver, and send it to us with a 50% deposit 60 days before the trip date. Balance is due 30 days prior to trip departure date. Please click on our Registration/Travel link to access the required forms.
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Alaska
