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Overview | Climbing | Trekking
Ishinca Valley | Alpamayo
| Huascaran | Pisco/Chopiqualqui
(Huascaran from Chopicalqui base camp.)
2008 Dates: June 14 - July 2 (19 days).
2009 Dates: June 20 - July 8 (19 Days).
Cost: $4600 per person
Client to Guide Ratio: Max 2:1
Intermediate/Advanced Level Climbing
Conditions have improved on Huascaran! Based on recent information gained from our 2007 season in Peru, we have decided to offer a Huascaran Sur expedition for the spring/summer of 2008. We will maintain a 2:1 client-to-guide ratio on this climb, increasing chances for success. Group size will be 4 climbers and 2 guides, with burros, porters, and cooks in support.
The Cordillera Blanca in Peru offers some of the most spectacular mountain scenery to be found anywhere in the world. Tall jagged peaks of rock and ice dominate the eastern horizon from the small market town of Huaraz. Our main objective, will be the mammoth Huascaran-Sur (22,205'), Peru's highest peak and one of the most imposing summits in the world. It offers a challenging ascent requiring intermediate level alpine skills, and an unusual opportunity for climbers who want to make an ascent to very high altitude. In order to acclimate, we will also attempt Nevado Pisco (18,882'), which offers breathtaking views all the way to the summit. Previous glacier experience is recommended for both ascents.
Once we arrive in Lima, we travel by bus to Huaraz (9,500'), at the very foot of the Cordillera Blanca. After spending a day in Huaraz checking and repacking gear, we drive north to Quebrada Llanganuco. We set our first camp at 12,600 feet and with the help of burros, the next day move up to our second camp at 15,000 feet. The third day takes us to one of the most beautiful mountain camps in all the world, the col between Pisco Oeste and Nevado Huandoy. Our route, the Southwest Slopes, takes us through interesting crevasse fields and up some 30-45 degree slopes, providing us with spectacular views the entire way. With our gradual ascent, expedition team members should feel good on this climb, and upon its completion, be well prepared for an attempt on Huascaran.
After resupplying in the valley, we drive to the town of Musho right below Huascaran and then, with our gear again on burros, we set out for base camp at 14,400 feet. We complete our acclimatization with an easy ascent to Camp I at 15,600 feet and then continue up over easy ice slopes and crevasse fields towards the peak's west face and establish Camp II at 18,000 feet. Glaciers flow down from Huascaran Norte and Sur to a saddle between the two massive peaks, and then off the saddle to the west, first gently and then in a steepening icefall. We avoid the unstable areas of the icefall by traversing under the south summit's western face, climbing moderate ice slopes and short steep sections to reach the shelter of a bergschrund above the icefall where we establish our high camp at 19,600 feet.
Southwest Adventure Guides continues to offer Huascaran trips in response to our clienteles strong desire to climb this famous and formidable massif. We stress to all customers, however, that the climb involves significant objective hazards. The ascent from Camp 1 to High Camp passes through an hourglass feature that funnels serac fall, and has been the site of casualties in recent years. From high camp, the normal route, or Garganta, passes through crevassed terrain that has been impassable at times in recent years. When these conditions on Huascaran Sur exist, we climb Huascaran Norte (21,525 ft.) as an alternative. While we take pride in offering what we feel is the best approach to attempting the highest peak in the Cordillera Blanca, we also want our clients to be aware of the risks involved. Our climbs on Chopiqualqui, Alpamayo, and in the Ishinca Valley offer stellar climbing at high altitude, while posing relatively fewer objective hazards. If you are serious about climbing Huascaran, we hope you will consider joining our expedition based on our experience, judgement, and strategy for attaining the summit of this formidable mountain.
- Day 1 (June 14): Fly to Lima, Peru.
- Day 2: Today we travel by bus to the town of Huaraz (9,980 ft.).
- Day 3: Today is spent organizing and packing food and equipment in Huaraz. We'll also have the opportunity to explore Huaraz and wander through local markets.
- Day 4: Today our private transport takes us to Quebrada Llanganuco in Parque National Huascaran and we'll establish base camp on Pisco (12,800 ft.).
- Day 5: Hike to Laguna 69 and acclimatization day.
- Day 6: An easy hike/trek takes us to moraine camp (15,500 ft.). Our gear is carried by burros and porters, allowing us to keep pack weights light.
- Day 7: We'll make the short climb to high camp on Pisco (16,500 ft.) through some rolling terrain. We arrive in camp early to allow for some rest before the next day's summit attempt.
- Day 8: Summit day on Pisco (18,998 ft.). This is a spectacular glacial ascent with views of the entire range. This is an excellent warm up to the larger objective of Huascaran and team members should feel fit and acclimatized on this climb.
- Day 9: We catch our private vehicle and return to Huaraz for resupply and rest.
- Day 10: Team members participating only in the Pisco portion of this climb will return to Lima on this day and fly home that evening or the following day depending upon individual flight reservations. Huascaran team members will continue with preparations and get additional rest in Huaraz.
- Day 11: We take private transportation to Musho, and with the help of burros and porters set up base camp (14,400 ft.).
- Day 12: Today we'll climb to and establish Camp 1 (15,500 ft.) on Huascaran .
- Day 13: With the help of porters, we'll climb to and establish camp 2 (18,000 ft.).
- Day 14: Again with the help of porters we'll climb to and establish our high camp (19,600 ft.) on Huascaran, at the col between Huascaran Sur and Norte. This is one of the most spectacular high camp's in the world with views of the Cordillera Negra to the east and Huascaran's sister, Chopiqualqui (20,841 ft.).
- Day 15: Summit day on Huascaran (22,205 ft.) and descend to base camp.
- Day 16: Alternate Summit day in case of poor weather.
- Day 17: Return to Huaraz and celebrate!
- Day 18: Return to Lima.
- Day 19 (July 2): Return to the U.S.
Included in cost: An AMGA trained Alpine Guide, all ground transportation, hotels, tents, and food while on the mountain. All group climbing and camping equipment.
Not included in cost: Food and drinks in towns, personal climbing and camping equipment, and international air fare, costs of a personal nature, extra hotels or transportation due to illness, injury, or early return.
Prerequisites: Participants should have prior, basic mountaineering experience, and glacier travel. They should be comfortable with self arrest, walking in crampons, and have ice and rock climbing experience. They should also have climbed atleast one peak over 16,000 feet. If you do not possess these skills, or need review, we recommend doing a skills course with us in Colorado prior to your Peru trip.
Registration and Cancellation: You will need to fill out an International Expedition Application, cancellation policy agreement, and liability waiver, and send it to us with a 50% deposit 60 days before the trip date. Balance is due 30 days prior to trip departure date. Please click on our Registration/Travel link to access the required forms.
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